THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN TUSCANY, PART 2

Ah, Romano. Our visit here is still the subject of a heated debate. Was this one of the best restaurants we visited in Tuscany, or was the limited menu reason enough to remove it from our top 10 list?

Romano Franceschini and his wife Franca (who also serves as the executive chef) opened this family restaurant in 1966, and have since become a local institute, as well as a Michelin-starred restaurant. Some of the dishes served here are considered classics of the Tuscan coast.

Romano’s menu changes seasonally, and is very focused on seafood. There are fish dishes, but not that many. Here, seafood delicacies, such as langoustine (scampi, in Italian) and cuttlefish, are the stars. Since a full meal here, wine excluded, will cost around 95 euro per person, some might say that a more varied menu is to be expected. Others would claim that the restaurant should stick to doing what it knows best, and has been perfecting for 40 years. Our tip to diners considering this venue would be to consult your waiter and ask for his recommendations. Try at least one of the classics, and base your choice of dishes on the season’s specials.

If we may skip to the end for just a minute, it’s worth pointing out that for us, despite its limitations and flaws, Romano offers some exquisite dishes and is definitely worth s visit. Even though our menu consisted mostly of langoustine-based dishes, served in different forms and dressings, they were the best langoustines we’ve had in Italy –  fresh, delicate, sweet and pure. They were perfectly prepared, presented almost nude, as if the chef were so sure of the quality of his produce that he felt no need to wrap it up in exciting spices or overbearing flavors. Other diners, on the other hand, expected more complex dishes and a more varied menu, They found the style here to be a bit too simple.

An incredible dish of fresh langoustines, Sardinia artichokes and heavenly mayonnaise. But is it enough to declare Romano (in Viareggio) one of Tuscany’s best restaurants?

Our antipasto was probably the best dish of our meal – fresh langoustines, served with artichokes from Sardinia (this dish is only available during artichoke season, naturally) and Romano’s signature mayonnaise (one of the best we’ve tasted in any restaurant). The complex bitter-sweet tastes of the artichoke, combined with the delicate, pure, fresh taste of the seafood, and the creaminess of the mayonnaise, was perfect.

Other dishes were also good – the tiny calamari filled with a finely chopped mixture of vegetables and shrimp was fun and very tasty, but my friend’s insalata di mare was a bit bland.

My main course was, once again, scampi… This time served in  a rich butter sauce.

Seafood risotto. Why is it that so many restaurants in Tuscany serve their risottos extra-al-dente?

The seafood risotto was good, though a tad salty (and those who like their rice well done should choose a different dish. Like many other restaurants in Tuscany, Romano make a very al dente risotto, keeping their grain with a strong bite).

The deserts were well executed and tasty (though not spectacular). A millefoglio with cream and fruit, and a hazelnut tartufo, followed by an assortment of biscuits offered by the chef, and some strong coffee, were the perfect ending to the meal.

All in all, this was a very good meal, but a bit overpriced in our opinion. We would have liked to see more options on the menu, but something should be said for the fact that the memory of the scampi remained and floated in my mouth for several days after our visit to Romano.

As we were leaving, we could see the numerous people walking in costumes to the Viareggio carnival, held yearly, and famous in all of Italy. Naturally we couldn’t resist taking a couple of photos…

People in costume at Viareggio’s annual carnival

Romano, Via Giuseppe Mazzini 120,Viareggio. Tel: 0584-31382, www.romanoristorante.it

If you would like to know more about the best restaurants in Tuscany, which shops and outlet villages shouldn’t be missed, and where to book the very best Chianti and Brunello wine tours and tastings Consult our best selling travel guide, Tuscany for the Shameless Hedonist.

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THREE SURPRISING FAMILY DESTINATIONS IN TUSCANY

Some of the world’s most famous historic sites, churches, piazzas and artwork are in Tuscany. It is the dream vacation of many because of it offers so much – a plethora of high profile destinations, amazing food and fantastic, sunny weather. Those must-see spots are well worth visiting, and are all explored in detail in our guide, but they are not necessarily kid-friendly attractions. Luckily, Tuscany also offers some hidden, charming and family-friendly corners just waiting to be discovered by children and their parents. Below you will find three surprising destinations that kids will love. All three are off the beaten path, but don’t be intimidated – venturing off to lesser known parts of the region can actually be a great idea. It will allow you to break away from the crowds that flock to the most popular locations, as well as enjoy more active activities, out in the open, surrounded by nature. For detailed itineraries, ideas for specific activities, parks, and attractions, check the chapters about the Garfagnana, the Maremma and the Eturcan coast in our travel guide, Florence & Tuscany with Kids 2015.

1. THE MAREMMA AREA Tucked away in southern Tuscany is the beautiful Maremma area. If you’re looking for a retreat after spending time in busy, bustling Florence, the Maremma offers the respite you seek, from stunning sandy beaches and blue seas to wild woodsy nature parks. This is a nature lover’s paradise, and it isn’t that far from Florence. Not geographically anyway… Just be prepared to find yourself in a different, much calmer world, when you arrive.

This is the place to go fishing, hike in the woods, ride horses and enjoy a full range of outdoor activities. Choose an agriturismo (instead of a regular B&B) for the full rural Tuscany experience, and your kids will have some amazing material for those ever-popular ‘What I Did on My Summer Vacation’ papers when they go back to school. 

3.THE GARFAGNANA AREA In northern Tuscany, the dramatic Garfagnana area awaits. The Apuan Alps are dotted with several villages where you’ll want to linger in the crisp air, mountains, meadows and caves. The great outdoors are at their finest here, in this destination for doers. If you or the children are suffering a museum overdose, the Garfagnana is the cure!The Alps here offer dazzling views, but for a real adventure, take a tour of the Wind Cave and see the Alps from underneath. Explore an ancient castle, and end your day with an adventure park. Tour around in the open spaces above ground by raft, bike or quad, or just keep it simple and hike. You will find detailed tours of the Garfagnana area, and a full list of activities and parks, including some of the most popular hikes in Tuscany and suggestions on how to visit the Marble quarries of Carrara, in our guide.

4. THE ETRUSCAN COAST Children generally love beaches, and Italy is nearly surrounded by water. The Etruscan Coast in Tuscany stretches from Livorno to Piombino, offering ample opportunities to indulge your little beachcombers and enjoy some sea and sand yourself. This area has a lot to offer besides a day by the sea with resorts. Two water parks, some fun amusement parks and archeological parks are just a few of the attractions that will tempt the younger members of the family.

Curious kids will also enjoy exploring the fascinating world of the ancient Etruscans at archeological sites, most notably the Archeological Park of Baratti and Populonia. This dazzling coastline offers something for everyone with a wonderful mix of seaside fun and intriguing history.

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FINDING THE BEST SPA & WELLNESS RESORTS IN TUSCANY

If it’s a day of decadent bliss you’re after, Tuscany offers a wide array of day spas, resorts and hotels built right next to (or above) healing thermal springs. There are several different types of hotels, though. Some resemble a 1960’s clinic, and attract, mostly, a local, elderly crowd – men and women who come on doctor’s orders to take advantage of the springs’ medicinal properties. Others are typical 3-star hotels, which offer a mid-range, pleasant experience; and others still are the best of the best, excellent resorts which offer various beauty treatments, spectacular views, indoor and outdoor pools, and refined rooms.

If it’s the high-end experience you are after (and in Tuscany high-end doesn’t necessarily mean very pricey! You’d be surprised with the offers you find), consult Tuscany for the Shameless Hedonist. In our guide we have listed some of the very best day spas and resorts in the region. We have also listed the best restaurants in the area (within a short drive of the different spas), as well as some highly recommended wine tours and tastings, to make sure our readers have a truly memorable experience. What kind of resorts and spas might you expect to find in Tuscany? Below are two recommendations for two high-end resorts worth exploring. For other options, consult the guide.

FONTEVERDE SPA RESORT The Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort exudes luxury, and is one of the best options in the Chianti area. The resort is set in a renovated 17th-century country estate formerly of the de Medici family, and boasts 66 rooms and 7 suites, all of which are beautifully designed. However, the real forte of this resort isn’t the hotel rooms, but the spa (which is also open to outside guests).

The Fonteverde spa is built around a thermal spring discovered by the ancient Etruscans and offers over 100 treatments. Five indoor pools and two outdoor pools are at the guests’ disposal. The view from the thermal pools of vineyards and olive groves crisscrossing the Siena hills is magnificent, and reason enough for choosing this spa for a day of pampering (before or after your visit to one of the many vineyards in the area, naturally…). Alternatively, a visit to Fonteverde’s night spa is a highly recommended. Like many other spa facilities in the region, Fonteverde offers access at night for a bit of an after-dark treat. In our opinion, soaking at the thermal pool under the stars (and for a reasonable fee of €22) and then enjoying the facility’s beautiful bioacqum (thermal hydro-massage) is a perfect way to end a day of Tuscan adventures. Fonteverde Tuscan Resort & Spa, www.fonteverdespa.com

GIUSTI HOTEL AND SPA In Northern Tuscany, another excellent spa awaits. At first glance, the Giusti Resort and Spa seems like your average Tuscan 4-star hotel; golf course, spa, elegantly converted rooms overlooking the town of Monsummano Terme. But look (quite literally) a little deeper and it becomes clear that Giusti has some secrets. Below the hotel and set deep into the Tuscan hills is an enchanting grotto spa. The labyrinthine cave system, which experiences 100% humidity and temperatures between 31°C and 34°C, has been converted into a full-service thermal spa.

Find our more about the very best that Tuscany has to offer, from the top recommended restaurants in Florence to the best sights and activities, top festivals, and best wine tours and Chianti tastings in our best selling travel guide, Tuscany for the Shameless Hedonist (now on sale on Amazon). Diving excursions through the depths of the cave system can be organized for the more adventurous. Alternatively, the view of the Tuscan countryside from the thermal swimming pool is the perfect way to relax, and a cheeky cocktail will surely contribute to your overall condition. Grotta Giusti Resort, Golf & Spa, www.grottagiustispa.com.

TOP TIPS FOR DRIVING IN ITALY

Avoid the ZTL

The ZTL is an issue that many tourists aren’t aware of. They should be, however, as it is the main reason tourists are fined when traveling in Italy. Most towns in Italy protect their historical center, which is where most of the attractions are, by defining it as a ZTL, a limited traffic area, where only residents can drive and/or park. There are security cameras at the entrance to any ZTL area that register your vehicle number and send you, or your rental company, a fine, which, together with handling fees charged by the rental company, will be about €100.What does a ZTL sign look like? A white circle surrounded by a red ring and next to it another sign saying ZTL (or zona traffico limitato).

Don’t drink and drive

The maximum amount of alcohol permitted in your blood while driving is 0.5 mg/ml. This is especially relevant if you plan on doing any wine tasting in the many delightful little vineyards scattered throughout Tuscany during your trip.

Know your roads

There are two kinds of highways in Italy: free and toll. Those with a toll are called autostrada, and they are marked with green road signs. The free roads have different names but are always marked with blue road signs. From Pisa to Florence, for example, you can take the free, blue-marked Fi-Pi-Li, or the Autostrada A11, which is a motorway with a toll, marked with green signs. The advantages of the tolled autostrada are that it takes less time to reach your destination and the maximum speed limit is higher. It can be up as high as 130 kph (kilometers per hour).

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